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Despite significant growth, the hair care market is becoming overly complicated.

The labelling claims desired and increasingly demanded by consumers are beginning to significantly restrict the ingredients available to formulators:

  • Free from Sulphates/SLES (sodium laureth sulphate)/SLS (sodium lauryl sulphate)
  • PEG (polyethylene glycol) Free
  • Preservative restrictions on parabens, MIT/CIT, formaldehyde donors and phenoxyethanol
  • Natural and/or Organic
  • Chemical Free

Labels don’t just have to indicate what isn’t in consumer goods-  they also need to sell the formula’s attributes and benefits.

Simple formulations for shampoo and conditioner that address concerns without having a significant impact on cost or performance is one of the key areas manufacturers can add differentiation.   Materials with natural derivation and accreditations can and should be used preferentially where possible.

In a new article, Surfachem’s technical development team discuss recent trends and suggest simple formulations that address labelling claims cost effectively and efficiently. Jason Dearden-Watts and James Hodgkinson of Surfachem Group recommend ingredients and formulatory approach for shampoo, conditioners, silicone-free and two-in-one conditioning shampoo, optional modifiers, heat and environment protection, colour protection, and volumising. Surfachem Technical laboratory has developed a number of basic formulations, featuring a range of ingredients such as:

Abil Soft AF 100 (Evonik), Carbopol Silk 100 (Lubrizol), INKA Omega, Mongongo and Ubuntu oils (Aldivia), Saliguard HDZ (Salycilates & Chemicals), Sensomer CT-250 (Lubrizol), Varisoft EQ 65 Pellets (Evonik), sunscreen ingredient SunCat MTA (Bio-Nest/ KuoChing).

The article "Hair Care Devolution: Naturally Back to Basics" by J. Dearden-Watts and J. Hodgkinson of Surfachem was published in Personal Care Asia, June 2015, and is courtesy of the publisher.

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